Mt. Rushmore. Shrine of Democracy and American patriotism

This is the translation of the article we wrote for dziennik.pl. Here you can find original article about Mt. Rushmore and our view of American patriotism.

It was getting dark over the amphitheater. Park ranger with a voice slightly shaking with emotion started talking about Thomas Jefferson, what he believed in, his vision and dreams about America. "And now it's time for a trivia" - she said. "Do you know how many people signed Declaration of Independence on 4th of July?" - she asked the crowd.

Amphitheater is 2/3 full. It's Saturday, but it's just the beginning of June, summer holidays haven't started yet. In a few weeks it'll be really difficult to find a place to sit.

One - someone shouted. Yes, good. The rest of them was signing later, some of them in August - adds ranger. - And who was the one that signed first? - few seconds later we know the name. - Pretty good - commented ranger. 

Which presidents died on July 4th? - she asks. The answers follow right away. - And which were born on July 4? - and again, the crowd shouts out answers. "We are jelous looking at 4th of July parades" wrote Jacek Żakowski in Polish weekly "Polityka". We are jelous now looking at knowledge of Americans about 4th of July.

Who in Poland knows whose signatures were under 3rd of May Constitution of 1791? How long did it take to discuss it? How was it celebrated in Warsaw or in other cities? How many pages did it have, what were the first words, who wrote it? We used to think we were pretty good at Polish history, now we are ashamed to admit we only have questions, not the answers.

Żakowski tries to make us feel better. "3rd of May is a memory of a success of a small group of advance nobles gathered around the king" - he says. So, as usually after another lost soccer game: "No worry Poland, nothing happened". You don't have to know, it was for an event the elites. Was it? Declaration of Independence was for elites only too, as on July 4th it was signed by only one person. And on May 3rd people of Warsaw could celebrate the third constitution in the world that was to give the basis to the modern state. And there were celebrations on the streets.

3rd of May is trying to unite Poles in patriotism. There are flags on all the blocks of flats, not so many on dhouses. Is there any union?

In the amphitheater you can feel the union even on this very evening. - I will be back in a sec - says ranger - meanwhile meet your neighbours - she adds and dissappears backstage. Whole amphitheater fills with buzz of conversation. Traditional suberbean American families 2+6 turn their heads to meet retired people traveling in their motorhomes to ask where they're from and how long they're going to stay in South Dakota.

As we are much slower at starting conversations than Americans it's rather them getting to meet us than the other way around. Family sitting next to us is "only" 2+3, but they are not from real Wild West but from Indiana, which is mid-West, in family terms really almost an east coast. If they lived in Utah or Wyoming they'd probably have at least twice as many kids.

Where are you from? Poland? - they seem surprised.- Yes, Poland, in Europe - we assure them remembering that the nearest Poland is somewhere in southern Illinois, not far from Indiana. They are amazed with our journey. We got here after 20 000 miles across the US. - Half a year in States? That's great! With two small kids? Awsom! With a trailer? Great! How do you like it? You love it? That's wonderful! We'd love to go on such a trip across Europe! - they are really excited.

- We've been there once already- they continue. We went to Sankt Petersburg, and then we drove along Baltic coast on Swedish side, we also went to Germany and Austria - they say. They are not the first people we meet on our way who tell us that they traveled to Europe. Too bad those trips started in Sankt Petersburga and end up in Western Europe as usual not going to Poland on the way. Those who organized Polish campaigns in CNN proudly said that brand recognition of "Poland" improved. Recognition probably did improve but Poland still haven't become tourist destination to Americans.

One of the soldiers sititng in front of us joins the conversation. There are two rows of soldiers in our part of amphitheater. - Where in Poland are you from? - asks Holliday (rank unknown, we know the name because it's embroided on the back of hat). - From Warsaw - we say. I didn't go there, unfortunately. But I spent some time in Sulęcin. I really liked it, I worked informing people living in the area about NATO excercies so I could talk to regular people - he says. We get it. Meeting people is just as much fun part of our journey as visiting national parks.

We'd love to talk some more but ranger is back on stage and goes on with her presentation. We're not only ones who'd like to keep talking, as buzz of conversation continues for a few more moments, but there is no need to shush anyone. Ranger asks more question, this time about flag. She starts with easy one, about the colors on it. How many there are? Everyone shouts out the answer. Then it gets more difficult. Which color symbolises vigilance, perseverance and justice? - she asks. Audience seems unsure. - Blue? - yep, correct! Next ones are easier. Audience can have an excuse - colors on the flag didn't have meanings. The interpretation is taken from the description of the Great Seal. Later they were assigned to "stars and stripes".

And why red on flag is separated by white - another question comes right away. Not an easy one again, audience awaits the answer from stage. It's a symbol of separation of colonies from Great Britan - says ranger. For visitors from Poland it's really interesting, for the rest of audience it's just a refreshment of knowledge they got in school.

Four great presidents George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodor Roosvelt and Abraham Lincoln look at the audience from above. Carved "for ever" as they say here in marble of Mt Rushmore they symbolise american dreams and ideals as well as key moments of American history. Washington - freedom being at basis of American experiment, Jefferson - equality, Lincoln - abolition of slavery and bringing back the idea of union, Roosvelt - international engagement, economic revival and enviormental protection.

Gotzun Borglum, sculpturer who created this monumental piece, planned to place under heads a board with ideals that they represent. He believed without it the whole thing is like a letter without the address dropped in the mailbox. He didn't put the address. He died in 1941, just before - as they say here - World War II. Board was rejected and project was finished by Borglum's son - bearing a very patriotic name Lincoln.

Mount Rushmore wasn't supposed to be a temple of American patriotism. A man behind the idea, historian and publicist Doane Robinson had something more pragmatic in mind - tourists, especially the ones with fat wallets. In the 1920. tourism in the US was in full swing. There were no signs of the end of boom, collapse of stock market from the end of previous century was just a memory of historians. Ford couldn't keep up with the production of automobiles and better and better roads were linking old Wild West with industrial East.

Crowds of tourists were going to Yellowstone and even further to southwest, to beautiful places in southern Utah. Old Oregon trail near Black Hills was perfect for such journeys, especially after it was improved by mormons going from Illinois to Utah. But why would anyone stop in Rapid City? It had simply nothing to offer.

Doane Robinson came up with the idea to make a monumental sculpture in Black Hills that would be, as any American attraction "world best". It's the only way to attract visitors and they'll bring money. Cowboys were not enough and South Dakota was facing stagnation. Meanwhile America was racing forward and who didn't have an idea how to stay in the race, was out of the game. Robinson wanted to turn high finns of Black Hills into great heroes of Wild West: Buffalo Bill Cody, Lewis and Clark and Red Cloud. He brought Borglum, so the sculptor could tell him is it possible at all from technical and artistic point of view.

Borglum took a look at Black Hills and decided it was a great place for something that monumental, although he had a different idea. Being American patriot believing in ideals atanding behind his country he thought whatever will be made here should express greatness of the United States. He convinced Robinson that Black Hills deserve to become American temple and home to four greatest American presidents.

"Let us place there, carved high, as close to heaven as we can, the words of our leaders, their faces, to show posterity what manner of men they were. Then breath a prayer that these records will endure until the wind and rain alone shall wear them away" - said Borglum in 1930.

Those words weren't carved after all. "Stars and stripes" weren't even in a project. Maybe they didn't look that monumental as heads of presidents. Which of course doesn't mean there is no flag there. There is, along with flags of 56 states and territories. Flags stand in alphabetical order. "If you have any problem finding your flag, do not hesitate to ask ranger for help" - encourages NPS brochure. 

"Stars and stripes" wave proudly ovet amphitheater just under marble presidents. Wave is actually too much to say, amphitheater is glued to the mountains, surrounded by trees. Sometimes probably it gets windy here, as on the other side of the mountains at Interstate "90" wind was increasing our mpg a lot. But tonight wind didn't want to show the symbol of pride, strenght and unity won in a bloody Civil War. There will be more about the war in a movie we'll see in a few minutes, that was made especially for and about this place. 

Iron curtain slides open and movie starts. It's a short history of United States. There are all key words we already know from traveling across the US. There are dreams, faith, desire of one followed by support and cooperation of millions. We've seen it before in Kennedy Space Center in Florida, in Alamo in Texas, even at Hoover Dam near Las Vegas.

Movie goes through the history of USA and of the place we're at. It shows how the country was growing, mentioning that unfortunately "for indigenous people it meant significant loss of population". Difficult chapters of American history are not hidden but are wrapped in clearly hard-negotiated, politically-correct language. Final result for us sounds a bit quirky.

These weaknessess however do not oveershadow the most important message of the movie. American ideals from Declaration of Independence - life, liberty and pursuit of happiness, on which this country was built are still alive. Every one in the amphitheater is responsible for them. Everyone is supposed to implement them and protect them. And this is a good moment to stand up and sing American anthem. In the darkness lightened only by illluminated faces of four great presidents and a spotlight directed to "stars and stripes" it's a really moving moment.

After the anthem it's time to honor those who protect the American democracy often far behind its borders. All the military, no matter whether active or not are asked to come on stage. Over 100 people out of a few thousand sitting there stand up. There are people in uniforms as well as holiday makers in shorts and t-shirts. Young ones probably came back from Afganistan, Iraq, Korea or some bases in Europe. Older remember Korea and Vietnam. There is one elder guy that might've fought somewhere on Pacific or european front. 

Ranger on behalf of entire nation thanks them for their sacrifice and service. Before she says anything she has to silence applause. Everyone is cheering standing as nobody sat down after the anthem. Ranger goes across the crowd on stage with a microphone and asks every one for name and formation. Some say rank too. It takes a while but all are rewarded with applause. 

Now comes the culmination of the evening. Ranges asks those who stand closest to the mast to take down the flag. Three people in uniforms and one in shorts take on the task. With a full ceremony and a crowd on stage saluting flag is lowered, folded and given back to ranger. She thanks everyone again and dissapears backstage.

Crowd quickly leaves amphitheater. Some people on their way out stop in open, despite late hour, gift shop. Others go straight to the parking that empties in less than half an hour. Two lane highway leads to Rapid City so traffic is smooth. Locals will probably be back on July 4th, tourists will have to do with parades and hot dogs or grill with family and friends. It's a very important part of tradition after all. Pursuit of happiness is one of the most important values so patriotism can, or even should, be tasty.